Allen Lyle of Today’s Homeowner demonstrates how to install tile in a bathroom.
Porcelain and ceramic tile flooring is beautiful, durable and easy to clean—especially in the high traffic areas in your house. For a long-term installation, youll need to prepare a solid base underlayment. Floor tile works well in areas of high traffic, but also in rooms with a lot of moisture, such as a kitchen or bathroom. The following instructions will show you how to lay the cement backerboard underlayment for a strong foundation under your tile flooring. In the next video and printable instructions in this series, How to Install Porcelain and Ceramic Tile Floors, youll see how to install, grout and seal the floor.
Video Rating: 4 / 5
very nice
Wow, what a nice old tile floor underneath. Why did they ever put stick on tile over a nice tile floor?
why no backerboard over that vinyl and before the tiles?
nice trick with the tiles. cool stuff
Good Work , and very easy to do , not like mine , it’s hard take a look at my videos
What is the purpose of starting in the middle? Why can’t u start from 1 side-less 2 cut.
My project just got a whole lot more interesting.
You might need to mention that you need to stagger your backerboard joints
@mabas21 of course there is a know it all with a big mouth
everywere you go, make your own video so someone can tell you
what you did wrong
@mapioto1
I completely agree. I always like to have a full tile where I can. In bathrooms I find it nice to hit full at the door and full or a half tile at the tub and hide my 4″ cuts under the counter edge/behind the toilet.
@thegoosebrain
You can lay over vinyl flooring if you use hardibacker or durock (spelling) . I recommend durrock. Just like the video said, use thin set underneath and fasten it with screws. I always put one screw every 6 inches. That ensures the board is fastened and that it is pressed hard against the thin set and will be level. Also the board should be layed opposite of the floor joists if you have a big room.
do not install backer board over laminate it will not last!!!!
I should add that I still remove the vinyl for Lowes installs, I just inform the customer to tell them they are taking it up themselves, and I will be putting the labor under “PREP” And I pray they dont do a jobsite inspection when im pulling it up!
Im a Lowes Tile subcontractor, I agree NOT to go over old vinyl and underlay with tile and backer board, I always want to get to the main subfloor to insure it is fastened right and add screws straight into the joists if necessary. I always say its only stuck as good as what its stuck to, and if I didnt install what its stuck to, I cant waranty it. Lowes policy is if I cant warranty the install I cant do it. Lowes installers arent allowed to remove vinyl either.
So who am I to believe? Half the “pros” here say not to tile over a vinyl floor and the other half say not to? I just purchased a 45 yr old home with a rolled sheet vinyl kitchen floor. I really dont want to remove it if I dont have to. I’m afraid of the asbestos and the backbreaking work of ripping it off the wood and all that glue that held it down. Please, what is best?
Great info.. and instruction! Thanks.
i can walk around 10 + minutes in a home-depot and not find one associate for help but when i do they know what where and how to do..go to lowe’s their everywhere but it takes a person to find a person that knows what the hell is going on.i dont understand some people are like robots.if it were my job top 2 bottom front 2 back without a pause second nature id answer any question solve any problem a snap..”must be a union thing, idiots”
i can walk around 10 + minutes in a home-depot and not find one associate for help but when i do they know what where and how to do..go to lowes their everywhere but it takes a person to find a person that knows what the hell is going on.i dont understand some people are like robots.if it were my job top 2 bottom front 2 back without a pause second nature i’d answer any question solve any problem a snap..”must be a union thing, idiots”
@mapioto1 Could not agree more, but for the 1st timers…. Throwing in a 12×12 or larger tile on a 45 degree can make you tear your hair out! And then going into a brick pattern or basket weave, don’t get me started. I figure just make it sweet and simple for the 1st timers or diy.
@mabas21 i totally agree ,never go over old vinyl or moisture plywood ,fix all that first!!! but i don not agree with you to have a full tile on a edge thats just the easyest way but not the best ,the best way y to be centered and have cuts not smaller than 3 or four inches…also straigt layout is overrated try diagonal or brick stile or both and i ll allways look newer and profetional!
Woah! It’s the “Retroincabulator” guy. Look up that video on Youtube. It’s pretty funny.
i trust this video more than expertvillige, and ehowto
@mabas21 Ya it may be unprofessional Just as long as you keep it level it wont effect anything.
Sometimes the old vinyl flooring is abestos based and cannot be removed without a special toxic removal crew. Enclosing it as they do in this video is effective and much cheaper.
Not that informative to the DIY market.
Good
@justborder3 no you can tile right up to the tub leaving a small line for grout in between.
They now make thinset that can be installed over vinyl no problem, the label will say the proper material it can be used on. If vinyl is failing or installed in-proper then remove. hardy-backer is lighter, cheaper, and easier to instal then the cement board. I agree with Mabas more full tile and less small cuts the better. Mer-Krete Fracture Guard 5000 can save even more time since it can be rolled on subfloor if it meets deflection requirements as specified by TCNA and MIOA.
They now make thinset that can be installed over vinyl no problem, the label will say the proper material it can be used on. If vinyl is failing or installed in-proper then remove. hardy-backer is lighter, cheaper, and easier to instal then the cement board. I agree with Mabas more full tile and less small cuts the better. Mer-Krete Fracture Guard 5000 can save even more time since it can be rolled on subfloor if it meets deflection requirements as specified by TCNA and MIOA